Back in Argentina

With memories lingering of my last overnight train journey in Latin America, when the scheduled 12 hours became 36, and with rather less than pleasant travelling companions, both of the human and non-human variety, my expectations of an overnight journey from Uyuni to the border with Argentina were not high.  However, instead of cockroaches, we had pillows, blankets and proper reclining seats, we were awoken to an invitation to breakfast in the dining car, and we rolled into Villazon bang on time.

An absolute highlight of northern Argentina was Tilcara, which was essentially just a stopping off point to break the journey on the way to Salta.  But it turned out to be a real favourite location, and if anyone is ever in the vicinity, be sure to stop off.  Tilcara has the most amazing setting (I´m sure I´ve written that a few times now, but superlatives are appropriate, if only I could download the photos to back up my assertions), surrounded by mountains, in a gorge -the Quebrada de Huamauaca- with the most amazing rock patterns. 

We also stayed in our favourite accommodation yet.  We had a cabana to ourselves, which was more like a log cabin, tastefully decorated, and loads of space, and outside on our patio there were deckchairs and hammocks, and more of the same on a terrace up above with amazing views over the mountains and over the extensive gardens.  It was a real paradise, my only regret that we didn´t stay for longer.   It was actually a Hostelling International hostel, proving once more that hostels really have gone upmarket since I started backpacking rather a large number of years ago.

So to begin with the "hostel" was going to be in receipt of a llama award, but then we liked Tilcara the town so much, that we concluded the award had to go to Tilcara as a whole  for a combo of amazing setting, fantastic accommodation, perfecto restaurants and a great walk which we did the next morning.  So great was it that we decided it had to be a golden llama!

Next stop was Salta, where a considerable amount of eating and drinking took place, including sampling Torrentes wine, in Bodegas in nearby Cafayate.  Another gorge added to the amazing scenery we have seen on this trip so far. 





The best bit though, was a stay on an estancia - a ranch type farm.  Most people go for the horseriding, but memories from 1986 of Miss Clucas failing to stop my horse galloping away uncontrallaby, with me gripping the saddle in terror, reigns long gone,  remained too strong, and we were both content to just chill out and enjoy the estancia´s relaxing surroundings. This was helped by the most enormous amount of food, including possibly the best steak ever, and never-ending amounts of red wine.  A bronze llama to the estancia.